First Impressions of Nepal

Exiting the Kathmandu airport

A sigh of relief overcame us as we left behind the crowds of India and found ourselves breathing fresh Himalayan air in Nepal. We spent our first week on the outskirts of Kathmandu, in Boudha— surrounded by dancing prayer flags, monks, pilgrims and authentic Tibetan Buddhist culture. These photos sum up our first impressions!

Watchful eyes of the Buddha reside over the town of Boudha 

Thousands of pilgrims circle the enormous Bodhnath Stupa every night to spin prayer wheels and send out peace to the world

A view of town from the Stupa 

Many Nepalis worship gods of all religions.  Check out the variety of deities for sale at this shop 

A typical sight in the Kathmandu Valley

Even monkeys spend their days chillin' with the Buddha

A view of Kathmandu from a hill-top temple 

Prayer flags adorn almost every mountain side

Famous Durbar Square in Kathmandu

A giant tree grows out of a shrine

Old world meets new: in a quickly modernizing city, deities are intertwined with iphones   

Om Mane Padme Hum

Just in case you didn't believe we were actually here.

Modes of transportation

There are many ways you can get around town in India; whichever you choose, chances are you'll feel like a popcorn kernel being popped in a popcorn bowl for the entire duration of your ride. Here are a few of the options we chose:

Auto-rickshaw: the most standard mode of transportation on the subcontinent- suggest a price 1/3 of what your driver asks and be ready to bargain hard! and then hold on for your dear life as you dodge oncoming traffic...

Of course you could always take a motorcycle through the city...

Or a tractor. 

Or hop on top of several enormous packages on a cart pulled by an ox

If you're going to the village where the roads end, you may need to hop a camel

You can find one of those at the local camel station

But be warned! Getting up and down is a little frightening... at least for beginners

Make sure you stay well hydrated as it could be a long, slow and bouncy journey

For longer distances, you can always opt for the sleeper train

Don't let Darjeeling Limited's comfy-looking trains fool you- you actually share a compartment with 5 other beds... which usually means 12-15 Indians...

Ready to be in Delhi after a 10 hr train ride

Of course if you're feeling luxurious, you can always hop a plane at Delhi's triumphant and spectacular new airport... and wait for your flight in the lush arboretum 

Or lounge on the most comfortable bed on the subcontinent, while taking advantage of the wifi

Diwali! the Festival of Lights

Perhaps the most important and widely celebrated Indian holiday is Diwali, the Festival of Lights.  Based in Hindu mythology, Diwali is a celebration of light overcoming darkness, and today it has become a time for families to gather, exchange gifts, eat sweets and set off fireworks. We spent Diwali (November 5th) in New Delhi with Shubhendra, Saskia and Ishaan. In American terms, Diwali is sort of like July 4th meets Christmas meets New Years meets Chanukah meets 1 billion crazy people. Imagine the finale of the most epic firework show you've ever seen, going on for 7 or 8 hours straight... in EVERY direction you could possibly look. In fact, some people haven't gotten the memo that Diwali has ended and have continued to set off fireworks all week!

Days before Diwali begins, shops are filled with flowers, sweets and fire crackers

We spent Diwali eve preparing the house for festivities and playing traditional Indian board games. We started by painting candle holders and adorning the house with electric lights and candles. We set up a shrine for the Hindu gods and placed flower garlands all around the house. Once the house was prepared, the board game tournament began. It is tradition to spend the night before Diwali gambling, so we played for chocolate coins. Ishaan won every game.

Painting candle holders

Our shrine included candles, flowers and mini statues of Ganesh- the Hindu god of good fortune

Ishaan and Shubhendra lighting candles on the balcony

Ishaan teaching us how to play Kavade

We spent the night of Diwali inside our beautifully lit up home and on the streets setting off fireworks galore.

Cassie enjoying the calm before the storm... of explosions

How much money would I be fined if I did this in Boston??

Ishaan mesmerized by the ball of fire in his hands

Light overcomes darkness before our very eyes... especially when 1 billion+ people are setting off fireworks

It's okay Ishaan... it was pretty scary for us too!

Indian hospitality

Wherever we travel, we are consistently greeted with genuine hospitality, friendship, curiosity, interest and no shortage of head wiggles! Whether in the cities or villages, deserts or mountains, we have been graciously invited into homes for chai, meals, sing-a-longs, homework help and holiday celebrations. Here are a few photos of friends we've made along the way and of time we've spent with our extended Indian family. 

An embroiderer and his family invited us in for chai before they ran out the door for temple

Avi chillin' with his bros on the streets of Ahmedabad

A sing-a-long with local artists and children inside their street-side studio

Cassie being courted by our (13 year old) camel driver with desert flowers

Avi giving some homework help during our home stay in the desert

Proud to show off their hard work!

A Rajasthani/American folk music collaboration in the desert village. this family of 12 shared one bedroom in order to offer us their recently constructed bungalow

Enjoying breakfast with the locals in Bundi

Out to lunch with our Indian family- international music superstars Shubhendra and Saskia (Avi's music gurus)

Relaxing with Saskia and son Ishaan- the sweetest and most intelligent 5 year old to grace planet Earth

Our dear friend/ tabla maestro Durjay, with his wife Kakoli and 2 year old daughter  Diya

Stuffed to capacity after a mouth-watering, authentic Bengali feast prepared by Kakoli